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We're
still trying to come up with that dragon. But this family rated their early
December
vacation memorable
in all other respects-including the bargain off-season
rates. We started them in Frankfurt, for a 3-day meander to the Rhine and
Heidelberg. Pursuing that elusive dragon, we then routed the family through
the Neckar valley, a drive known as "the castle route." The son
ecstatically dined in restaurants set in Gothic dungeons, and slept in castles
with crenelated battlements.

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Leaving
the Neckar River at Stuttgart, they found themselves surrounded by Christmas
market celebrations-- Christkindlesmarkt-- in burgs large and small. Age-old
traditions enthrall visitors, who shop for hand carved ornaments and creches,
or blown glass from artisans playing a trade past down through generations.
Delight
in German market specialties. Nosh on wurst, hot pretzels, mulled
wine and cider-- plus infinite varieties of
delectable pastries. For journey's and, we saved
a visit to Bavaria's Neuschwanstein-- the grandest castle of them all.
Spring through fall, we might recommend an itinerary encompassing the
best German and Swiss scenery: medieval villages, the Black Forest, the
Bavarian and Swiss Alps, Lake Constance. Highlights include romantic inns
and picnics in mountain meadows.

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